#SewVintageSeptember - Simplicity 6804 - 1985 blouse sewing pattern PART 3

I have finally got my modelled photos of the blouse I made for #SewVintageSpetember.  It is Spring here and we have had some lovely days and today when I planned to wear my new top to get photos it is cold and blustery and winter is back!  So the photoshoot was done and then back into winter clothes afterwards. (boo!)

So not many words but photos ...

The obligatory shot of the back (with the wind whipping up my hair!)

Tea anyone?

Ciao for now...

#SewVintageSeptember - Simplicity 6804 - 1985 blouse sewing pattern PART 2

 I have finished the 1985 vintage blouse started last post - Simplicity 6804 from 1985.

Notes on the make - 

• I made it two sizes smaller than the pattern sizing indicated on the pattern.  No finished measurements were given on the pattern so I flat measured at bust height and determined my preferred size from that.
• I shortened the pattern by 3 inches.
• I didn't love the way the shirt tail hem was finished.  Front and back finished separately then side seams sewn.  To get it all to match you need to mark the start of the side seam / start of the hem curve better than I did.  I had to fudge it a bit.

Other than that I am pretty happy with it and of course the weather has got too cool to want to wear a short sleeve blouse so modelled photos will come later.

So not much more to say, here are the photos...

Front shoulder yoke gathers...

Back shoulder yoke gathers... gathers for miles...

I did not have green buttons but had fun with the thread instead...

So I live in hope I will get modelled shots some time.  If you are on the hunt for your own vintage pattern or just love looking at them then please check out my Etsy shop for vintage and OOP patterns - SusysSewingEphemera.

I think the Wardrobe Contest on PatternReview.com will be my next sewing challenge...

Ciao for now kittens...

#SewVintageSeptember - Simplicity 6804 - 1985 blouse sewing pattern PART 1

On instagram I happened upon  a new challenge running for September that really caught my attention, SewVintageSeptember.  As I said last post I would love to sew a 1960's vintage frock and my interest in vintage has really piqued since I opened an Etsy shop selling vintage and out of print patterns.

I wanted to be involved but did not have a 60's frock pattern lined up yet so checked though my stash (including my shop) and pulled a pattern from my shop.  It is Simplicity 6804 from 1985.

The description of the pattern reads: Top-stitched shirt gathered to yoke has front button closing and notched collar. V.1 has bias bands on pocket and sleeves. V.2 has pockets and flaps, tunic length. V.3 with shirt tail hem has extended shoulders and long sleeves tapered to wrist. (Wrong side of fabric shows when sleeves are rolled up.)

I had a fabric that reflected the View 1 picture.  A printed polyester bought from Super Cheap Fabrics.

I love playing with a plaid and this pattern has all the grain line markings so you can lay certain pieces on the bias.  I chose to sew View 1 but with View 3's shirt tail hem.

The final bust measurement was not listed on the pattern like I am used to from current patterns, so I flat measured the pattern pieces at bust level to work out how much ease was in the pattern.  Well, as you would expect from this style of 80's pattern, there is heaps of ease.  I did sew my own clothes in the 80's (and bought a lot as I had my first real job) and do remember wearing some very loose / baggy tops but I think that suited me in that era and I was slim so they hung in the right kind of way.  Now that kind of ease is not the look anymore and I am not the young slim girl I was then, I decided to go with less ease and cut the pattern on the line two sizes down from the size indicated by my bust measurement. I also shortened the top by a full 3 inches.

I am taking my time and spent yesterday afternoon cutting and prepping. This afternoon I started sewing and thought I would get further through the make than I did but the pattern has quite a  bit of detail and I am enjoying that.  First up is the pocket.  If you could see a close up of the cover photo of V1. it looks like there is just a bias cut tab only where the pocket is but I realised they had pattern matched the pocket to make that top pocket band stand out.  I do enjoy a good pattern matching challenge!  The fabric being a polyester does not press so well so took me longer to put this together than it should have and it is not as precise as it could have been working with a natural fibre but I am happy with the outcome.

Pinned...

then sewn...

The front and back pieces are both gathered onto the yoke and I considered using the burrito method to make the yoke but with the difficulty of telling front from back in this fabric and with three lots of gathering I decided to use the method used in the pattern which gives an enclosed yoke but requires hand stitching to attach the yoke facing to the shoulder seams.  I am quite happy to hand sew but if you don't like it, look up the burrito method and it can be made entirely with machine sewing while still giving the lovely enclosed yoke finish.

So this is how far I got today...

Obviously I am blogging a current make.  While I did promise to blog some of my recent previous makes, this challenge got me excited and I also wanted to provide more detail while I made this shirt.

I also want to tell you about the sale I am having in my Etsy shop in line with this challenge.  All the vintage clothing patterns are 20% off over this week-end so you can perhaps find a pattern to join the challenge too.  Otherwise please feel free to jump over to my shop link to look at the lovely vintage pattern covers!  I love the cover art of vintage patterns, don't you?

Link to shop - SusysSewingEphemera.etsy.com  I rarely do a sale in this shop so this is your chance to get a bargain and hopefully sew a vintage item too.

Next up I will show the finished shirt, Ciao for now, kittens....

Simplicity 9330 - Men's dressing gown

Sewing for others... excuse me, while I shine my halo... My Dad needed a new dressing gown (robe) and the criteria was make it warm as he really feels the cold now.  I tried on one I made many years ago for my oldest son and the only change requested was to shorten the sleeves as my Dad is not tall and has shorter limbs than those catered for in the pattern.

I bought some Coral Fleece from Lincraft on a recent sale and as lovely as the fabric feels... the fluff!  I sneezed 3 times before I got the fabric to the counter to get it cut.  When I got home I overlocked the raw edges and washed the fabric as I am sure all the dust and fluff in that store had been attracted to that roll of fabric!

3m of fabric is long, so I am glad that when we renovated our house I bought a really long dining table... a bit of a folly as mostly there is two of us sitting at it, but I do love it when the family comes for a meal... or when I need to cut 3m of fabric!

This pattern is OOP but I am sure there are new similar ones about.  A good basic robe and pj pattern.  Once you get one, you don't really need another one!

The resulting robe..

Of course, my model Diana isn't shaped like my Dad and definitely does not have his shoulders!  I put the softest side of the fabric to the inside.  

To deal with the fluffy fabric, I found I had to shake each piece out outside before dealing with it, similarly if I trimmed a seam... off outside to make a fluffy snowstorm!  I did not interface or press with the iron.  I only finger-pressed seams as I worked with them.

I found I had to put a larger needle into the sewing machine as otherwise the thread shredded.  I ended up using a denim needle and it seemed to sew fine.

The robe has inseam pockets.... I have tried to show it here by tucking in the sleeve.

The back...  obviously it should fit my Dad's shoulders a bit better!

This is an easy sew.  I am not sure it is a value for money sew particularly if you have to pay full price for the fabric.  But I am happy to make this for my Dad and it certainly is a nice, lush fabric and possibly better than some of the ones I saw in the shops.  Father's Day is at the end of this month, so I will be gifting it to him then... I hope he likes it!

Ciao.. Off to de-fluff my sewing studio and clean my machine!

What I wore yesterday.. Simplicity 2599

Back in October last year I made two versions of Simplicity 2599.  The first a wearable muslin, the second one in silk.  At the time, I was over the silk version by the time I finished it and it has sat in my wardrobe since then.  Finally yesterday I got it out to wear to work and really liked it (why I did wait so long?)

I have matched it with Simplicity 2451, which I made back in February last year.

Both patterns featured in the Pattern Review best patterns of 2010.

I enjoyed wearing this top so much, that I have decided to make some more shell tops. The top I have decided to make is the Sorbetto Top.  A pattern which should be on the top 2011 pattern list.  Many successful versions have been made, the latest one I have seen here.

Now to finish my Vogue 1250 and then to find the sticky tape to prepare that pattern... Ciao!

Finally finished...

I have been working on or should I say looking at my unfinished Simplicity 2599  for weeks and now that I have finally had some time to finish it, I am a bit mehhh about it.  I am hoping I will grow to love it as it was a very expensive piece of fabric.  This is my second top from this pattern and I do love the first one I made... in a very cheap fabric!  Ah well, I am sure after a bit of hanging time in the cupboard this one will get used too.

The other thing that is finally finished is our house extension/renovation.  This one I am enjoying immensely and we are slowly settling in to our new surroundings.  We have plenty to do as yet - curtains, gardens and some more furniture, but I am afraid I am going to start boring you with pictures of it now.  

Today I present the kitchen and dining room... ta da!...

I am enjoying the new kitchen very much and last week-end when my DH's family visited we had plenty of room for everyone at the dining table!

Next up Vogue 1224 and probably more house piccies...Ciao

Some answers to questions ...

I have had some questions lately in my Comments and have been very lax in answering them - I hope you still want to know! :)

 

From my post on Boxer for the boys

 

Kelley said...

They look great, Sue, very professional. My DH has been after me for years to make some for him, but I think I must be channeling my inner Selfish Seamstress. LOL. In the event that I finally do cave, where did you find the boxer elastic? It looks like that is the way to go.

August 28, 2011 4:09 PM

katherine h said...

These look good. where did you get the boxer elastic? I just bought pants using that elastic and it is very comfortable.

The boxer elastic came from Lincraft - but don't look for any in the Toowoomba store - I bought the last of the roll!   I think I may have seen some online at Crafty Mamas.  I have bought magazines from there but not elastic, so far the service has been excellent.    

From the post about 05-2011-107 gym top   

katherine h said...

I cut my shirts with extra width at the underarms on the back only, grading back to a size or 2 smaller at the waist. This seems to accommodate those lat muscles. You will need to add the same amount to sleeves, if your top has them. Looks good. I'm sure you;ll make plenty more of these. What is the composition of your technical fabrics?      

This fabric is a poly/nylon - it will be interesting to see how it wears in high Summer - it is still coping ok in the cooler weather.   

Summer Flies said... Your last two tops look great .. both colours look great on you. Where do you get that vilene tape from - around here?

I got the vilene tape at Lincraft again (it is amazing what you can find in there).  However I remember it was very expensive.  I have found it on-line here and have been planning to buy some but haven't as yet and have not used this on-line shop so cannot comment on them.  

So this post does not have any pictures, I have snapped a picture of my WIP - my second Simplicity 2599 top in a luscious silk... ruffles to be added....

Another one of the top 10 made.. Simplicity 2599

I was so excited to finish this top, I have done the thing I don't normally do - the mirror self-portrait!

This is Simplicity 2599.  This top is also another one of the top 10 patterns of 2010.  If you read my blog, you may know that I have set the challenge to make all top 10 outfits (a follower I am!)

 

This version is my trial version made in a polyester chiffon (yoru?) which cost all of $5 m and seemed perfect for this top.  It is Version B with cap sleeves and vertical ruffles.

I was concerned when I first tried it on after inserting sleeves that it would be too tight across the shoulders.  I need to get a photo of the back and try wearing it for a day to see how it goes on that score.

  As you can see, it fits Diana very well across the back, but my shoulders are a little broader.

 

This is a great little top.  It has different cup sizes and I am the b-cup as my high bust is very similar to my full bust (that's those pecs I have worked on so hard ;) )

Even with the cup sizes I found I had to go down a few sizes as the ease is massive in this top.  I am a 34" bust which corresponds to a size 12 but it had something like 5 1/2" ease across the bust - too much for me.  I went down to the size 8, which has 3" ease.  

The other things I did were to leave off the button closure at the back as it slipped on very easily without this, so even though I think it looks cute, I know I will never undo the button.

I also left off the facing and used rayon seam binding to finish the neck edge.  I did as others have done with this too and used a roll-edge hem to finish the ruffle edge. 

The only tip (which I hope will work through the wash!) is that the ruffles are attached with two rows of stitching 3mm apart and the edge is raw.  As this fabric ravels terribly, I made the second row of stitching a narrow zigzag and then trimmed close to the stitching.  I am hoping that it will keep it tidy as well as hold it through washing.  I used my duck-bill scissors to trim the excess fabric.  I love these scissors - you don't want to be cutting a hole in your top at this stage!

Lulu was my sewing helper today and as you can see gave my top the seal of approval...

 

I am now washing my very expensive piece of silk to make another version of this cute top... Ciao!

Simplicity 2451 Skirts

Simplicity 2451 has been a very popular pattern on PatternReview.com and with good reason. It is a lovely skirt to make - well drafted, better than usual instructions (as it is 'easy-to-sew') and a good variety in the one pattern envelope.

I have made two skirts which have taken me more time than usual, while trying to cope with the renovation as well.

The first is View C and is made in a french crepe (polyester) bought from Gardams. I bought this fabric specifically to make this skirt. As it is black it is of course, difficult to photograph but very useful in the wardrobe.




The second version I made was in a stretch woven like a RPL (also bought from Gardams but has been in the stash a while). The stretch in the fabric makes it very comfortable. It is an unusual blue colour which reminds me of a uniform a bit but it has worked out fine and I am hoping it will work well with my work shirt (light blue chambray with navy/black logo). This one was version B. I added the stitching detail to the yoke but not the tabs.


Close-up of the stitching detail on the yoke and pocket edges. (Colour not true in this photo - it is not this bright).


To do the stitching and keep the stitches even and straight I used some tape gifted to me in my quilting days. It is about 1/4" wide and has markings to follow to make your stitches even. I put the tape on the edges I wanted to stitch against. You only need one piece that you move on as you stitch. I chose to stitch it in the same colour thread as the fabric, as opposed to making it contrast as I had seen this on RTW clothing.

The only changes to the pattern was to edge the inside facing with rayon tape (instead of turning it up) and this makes it more like RTW plus means less bulk in this seam. I also added my usual tab at the top of the zip (invisible zip as usual) on the inside with a snap. It looks bulky here but doesn't sit bulky when worn the right way.


I am now onto swimwear sewing. I have bought three Kwik-sew patterns, swimwear fabric and notions. Hopefully something to post soon!

The reno is moving along. The extension is at lock-up so the nasty temporary tin wall is gone and new and old are open to each other. This is great for many reasons - we know have a back door, windows, etc, but the dust from the building work is getting overwhelming and I am now at the stage that I am getting used to chatting to builders as they work while I am still in my jammies preparing breakfast!

Simplicity 2550 - Runway Ready

Finished!!! Now I am so over this dress that I can't enjoy it. I rushed it at the end and I can see a few things I may have to revisit. Anyway good enough to put in the cupboard and move onto other things.

Photos for you...

Not so happy in this shot but I think it shows the front better.

The back... the walking vent drove me insane - I had heaps of trouble finishing the lining about it and it now doesn't seem to sit quite straight, but I am hoping a wash and a press will correct it (wishful thinking???)
The bodice front close-up.


The zipper - It went in really well on the first go and is a bit lower than I would like, but I was not willing to un-sew it, so I have added a tab at the top. The matching went reasonably well though...


The pattern uses facings but I chose to line it by cutting the lining fabric the same as the outer pieces. I used the facing pieces to cut interfacing which I applied to the inside of the lining.


I could see no way of avoiding exposed seams in the bodice so the lining ended up more like an underlining here. It does help the fabric hold its shape and I tried to finish as neatly as I could. The wrap-over section on the front was the cause of this. Maybe with more experience I will work out a better way eventually.


The zip from the inside showing the tab at the top.

Overall - pretty happy! It is comfy to wear, required no alterations (I was wondering if I should have fitted it more but this is how the ease looks pretty much in their photo and it is very comfortable with the amount of ease it has). The lining makes it seem comfortable too, but I know it is going to be a bear to iron!!

Review here.