Monday, July 27, 2015

Sewing for the warm... Tessuti Suzy pant again

Even though the weather is still cold here, I am going on holiday soon and as we are going North I will need some nice casual clothes suitable for warmer weather.... yay!

So I have been looking around the webs and have been loving seeing casual drapey pants and decided it was time to pull out the Tessuti Suzy pant pattern again.  Last time I made these in a size small and in silk (posted here).  I tried these on as I know my shape has changed a bit since early last year.  Crossfit has ensured my butt is a little more rounded than it used to be!  

The pants fit but the side seam told the story - it pulls to the back at my butt and pulls forward at my thigh and back again toward my calf... so I figured I would try on my original muslin (not blogged) I made in a medium.  Well they fit much better now and fit nicely over the new, improved butt.  So I traced the medium off and made the same one alteration as last time (shortened the leg length by about 1/2") and amazingly found some gorgeous rayon at Spotties on sale.  So a new Tessuti suzy pant was born made....  

 So much so that I went back to Spotties and bought more fabric for a second pair. 

The top is New Look 6150 made in a beautiful knit rayon from The Fabric Store.  I choose my size by looking at the finished bust measurement and using the one that gave me one inch of ease. It is a bit of a fiddly make with the pleats and gathers in a rayon knit, but so worth it!   I had been looking for a top similar to a RTW one I used to own - pictured in this blog post.  I think I have found it and plan to make more of these flattering tops. 

My new fave outfit.... Ciao kittens... more warm weather makes soon...

Wednesday, July 22, 2015

Sewing for the cold ... Anima pants

I have made the Papercut Anima pants before at shorts length to trial the pattern and found that I liked the pattern but couldn't see the point of the faux fly.  Having the faux fly also made the front crotch impossible to adjust.  So I have used the pattern now without the faux fly and made myself some warm pants... tracky daks if you live in Aus!

The only other change I made to the pattern was to lengthen the leg length slightly (maybe not enough!) as I didn't add the cuff.

The pants are made in a gorgeous sweatshirt (listed as sweaty knit in the store) fabric bought from Crafty Mamas.  So warm and soft...mmmm!

As the fabric is so thick and luxe I made the waistband and pocket bag lining from some black cotton lycra blend.  It seems to be working out fine.  For the tie I used a long black shoelace - I really like how that works too.

As you can see they got cat approval even before I was wearing them!

The top I am wearing in the photos is a RTW one and the scarf is the Dory Scarf I made previously.

Review is here.

Very happy with my new trackies... Ciao for now kittens!

Thursday, July 9, 2015

Same, same, different... Jalie 2682

Back in July 2012, I made a long sleeved gym top with Jalie 2682 - blogged here.  I wore this top a lot that year (and perhaps the year after?)   It was a little on the tight side around the upper back/chest as the fabric never had the stretch the top needed.  Regardless it served me well, but I moved it out of the wardrobe as my shape has changed and it was too tight to continue wearing.

Now in 2015 I am a little bigger but enjoying CrossFit and I must say a CrossFit Box is a cold place in winter and so I started looking for another long sleeved top.  I lucked across some merino/polypropylene blend fabric marked as wicking at the The Fabric Store in Brisbane and it was half-price... $8/m.  Well of course I bought that instead of investing in  a RTW top.  The ones I had been eyeballing were between $70 and $125!

The fabric is soft has plenty of recovery and is soft and fuzzy on the inside and has an active wear fabric look on the outside.  So I pulled out Jalie 2682 again and traced another pattern size off.  

I chose to go 2 sizes larger than my indicated size.  I was 2 sizes larger in the last top too, but because of the lack of necessary stretch in the fabric, it didn't fit so well.   This fabric has lots of stretch and seems to recover well, and this top is actually a little on the big/loose side.  However as I want to wear it over other tops I am not bothered by this.  I also lengthened it about an inch to give me plenty of coverage over the hips (I hate being cold!).  I did try and curve the side seams but I don't think I put enough curve in as you cannot really tell.  Never mind, I was hoping to make it look current but I am still very happy with the top.

I lined the bodice front with sports mesh as I did not want to double up on the the thick, fuzzy fabric and it works really well.

I put a piece of  purple fabric through the zip pull.  I sewed it in a narrow tube then threaded through the zip pull and stitched it to hold it together.  A cheats way of having a fancy zip pull.

I have trialed it now and this is my feedback.
  • The length and size is great for this top.  If I were to make it for everyday wear I would go back down 2 sizes.  
  • The high collar is great as it gives coverage on the back of the neck, when resting a bar on it (which in the cold is not at all pleasant!)
  • The half zip makes it easy to take off when I do warm up.
  • I really like this top and with the current cold weather it is getting a lot of use.  It is light in weight and very comfortable and I don't feel sweaty in it even after I start warming up.  
  • My only negative is that when I do wear it a bit and sweat into it (and I do sweat) it does get a bit on the nose and needs washing before I am game to put it on again.  That is a shame as the ideal gym wear does not get the stink up and can be worn many times.  However the other side of the coin is I didn't pay a lot for this top and I have enough fabric to make more so I can alternate them.
Oh and for completeness I did do the full squat.  (The medicine ball on the floor behind me is just to help me ensure I get the correct depth).

I have plans to use this pattern in another way soon for a different kind of active wear. 

Reviewed here.

Ciao kittens until next time...

Thursday, July 2, 2015

60's pinny and turtleneck... Burdastyle 09/2012-104 & 105

After sewing a ball dress it was with great pleasure that I returned to sewing regular, everyday, wear-a-lot clothes.  Especially as my winter wardrobe is still a bit lacking. 

Burdastyle magazine had an outfit from the 09/2012 issue that I have always loved.  Love the 60's vibe, the simple styling, the ease of wear and the comfort factor. 

I made the turtleneck top 09-2012-104B.  It is the longer version (down to the hips/bottom) and works so well to keep me warm and snug.  It also sits well under the pinafore.  The fabric is a beautiful merino with a fine stripe from The Fabric Store in Brisbane.

I did actually muslin this (not something I would normally do with a knit top) but the merino was so lovely I didn't want to forsake it for a muslin.  I ended up using the armhole/shoulder width of one size smaller to the rest of the top.  I like this turtleneck style. This one is high enough to keep you warm without choking you.  I have tried a few over the years.

Kwiksew 3740 a great pattern made many times but a too open neckline for a really cold day.

but not as tight a neckline as Burdastyle 09-2011 -121 ...

or  Ottobre 5-2008-121...

Thinking I may have found my ideal turtleneck pattern. 

The pinny (09-2012-105) I made from a ponte which was lovely and soft bought from The Sewing Place when they had an offer for cheap shipping.

I didn't muslin this but probably should have.  I don't think the darts are quite right, but I love it enough that it has already become a favorite in my wardrobe.  For the days I don't want to wear the merino turtleneck I have a RTW purple rayon turtleneck that goes with it really well and is not quite so warm. 

The pockets look a little whoopy in this photo but really don't sit that badly in reality.  Very happy with my start to sewing winter wear.

Ciao kittens... active winter wear next....