Sunday, August 30, 2009

Photos - Burda wof 08-2009-117

I had a request to see photos of this one on so you can see how it fits. It was photographed this weekend when we went away and this is straight out of the bag (not pressed) so please excuse any wrinkles. Here is the top belted & un-belted.


I quite like this top but haven't done a test-wear yet. I took it this week-end but didn't end up needing it (but got the photos while I could). While I was at the shops I saw some versions of this - the cutest one was more of a singlet style and when I looked closer, the front and ruffle were basically attached to a cotton t-shirt. Sot the back was plain T-shirt and the front was lined with the T-shirt. The ruffle and outer front were silk like mine but it would be interesting to see how the cotton t-shirt wears (especially as it had a $90 price tag!) .

I had a question about Diana in the comments of my last post.
Blogger Chantal said...

I notice you have a Diana dress form. I'd like to buy a dress form, and these seem to be the only ones available in my area. How do you like it? Is it easy to get the right shape for your body? Is it sturdy? do the clothes fit on your dress form the same way they fit on you...Would you recommend it? Thanks, I've just found your blog, and was really impressed with the Channel jacket!, I used to find these jacket look good on other people, but not really interesting for me and my body shape, but after seeing yours and the one from your teacher and friend, I think might make one for myself! Thanks! Chantal

Chantal - I haven't had Diana very long yet, but so far I am really happy with it and have no regrets in buying it. I use it all the time. I think it is very close to my sizing as this model has quite a few adjustments. I choose this brand as the dials are easier to adjust than the thumb wheel type dials on other models. Also I was told that you can get replacement parts and they are not expensive if you break a bit. (You cannot get replacement bits for some others). I still try items on myself, of course, but if I feel I need to change something I can pin it while it is on Diana. On this top I used it to get the hem straight on both the lining and outer fabric - this would have been very difficult without the model. Yes - I would recommend it! (But like I said I haven't used it a lot as yet).

As well as some snoop shopping this week-end I also did some real shopping and snagged a few new pairs of shoes. I had to show uyou these wicked ones I bought to wear to the races...

Monday, August 24, 2009

Burda wof 08-2009-117

I needed a simple project before I return to Chanel jackets (in fact I plan to do a few... simple projects, that is!). So I chose Burda wof 08-2009-117. I saw tops in this style everywhere in Melbourne when I was there recently.
It meant I got to play with my new double pencil to trace the pattern.

It wasn't as easy to use as I hoped but still pretty good and probably the way I will use (until something else comes along). I like drawing the seam allowances at the same time. If I don't I always forget and trace the pieces forgetting to allow enough space for the allowances...

I chose a pretty seafoam green silk Georgette for the top. BWOF use Gorgette for their version, but I don't understand how it doesn't look see through in the bwof picture, because this sure would have been! So I also bought some lining fabric in a slightly deeper shade of green. It is a preshrunk good quality rayon.

Below is the line drawing (sorry about the blurriness) so you can see it is a very simple straight cut top.

And here is my nearly finished version on Diana. It is definitely loose (why am I always surprised!) However I don't think it looks this full in the bwof photo! Maybe it is the fact I lined it ...would that make it seem more full?

Anyway I left it overnight to try and decide if I should try and narrow it - but as it is lined I don't fancy trying it! After a night's sleep I think I will just hem it and move on! I am adopting something I read on Dawn's blog -

'Better finished than perfect'.

BTW, I was going to post this last night, but my computer has been playing up (the screen keeps going spak!) to add insult to injury when I went to post this just now, the battery fell out of the laptop and hit my foot (Owww! Is my laptop telling me it hates me?)

Friday, August 21, 2009

Chanel Jackets x 3

As mentioned in my previous post, the first outing for the jacket was to see the movie Coco Avant Chanel. The three of us from the class went so it gave us a deadline to finish our jackets. I was still sewing trim on in the morning and Felicity had to send her hubby off to buy more on the morning as she ran out!

So, without any more ado, introducing Chanel Class #1-2009:

In the red jacket , Felicity our instructor who was making two jackets while we were making one!
Then me (of course).
In the blue/tan jacket is Jane who I really enjoyed meeting in this class.
The three of us had a ball in this class with plenty of laughter!

I believe Felicity's jacket is made with Vogue 8529 and Jane and I both used Vogue 7975. We loved the fact that we used the same pattern but came out with very individual jackets.

I had the following questions in the comments of my last post:

katherine h has left a new comment on your post "Chanel Post #4 ...finished...sort of!":

Sue, that jacket is truly gorgeous. The colour is beautiful and you have done an impressive job of the trims. How was the movie?

We all enjoyed the movie. I thought it gave a good insight into Coco's life. There is enough fashion to keep sewist's happy, even though some of it may not have been quite accurate for the time it was placed. Audrey Tatou was fabulous!

Cindy has left a new comment on your post "Chanel Post #4 ...finished...sort of!":

It looks wonderful! Love the light green color and trim. Did you sew the fringe between the shell and lining or is it sewn on top of the shell? I want to use fringe on my Chanel and it baffles me a bit!

I sewed the fringe in between the lining and the shell. However if you look at Jane's jacket, the fringe is cut on the bias and then sewn onto the shell on the outside. It really depends on the look you are after.

Well, even though I plan to do more on the jacket, I need a break from it and have bought some fabric to make Burda wof 08-2009-117. Hopefully a nice simple top that can be whipped up quickly!

Wednesday, August 19, 2009

Chanel Post #4 ...finished...sort of!

I have been madly trying to finish my Chanel jacket for its very special first outing! The girls from my Chanel jacket class went to the movie 'Coco Avant Chanel' and we wore our jackets for the very first time! Piccie of the group of us to come,when it is edited and approved...

Here at the end of the day are photos of my jacket, the front...

the back - excuse the creases...

To show the detail, it is modelled here on Diana - first up the inside of the jacket - I think I should wear it this way all the time considering the amount of work in it!

A close-up of the trim at the neckline and front edges...

A close-up of the inside chain hemline detail...

I am reasonably happy with this jacket... but (isn't there always..) the sleeve heads aren't quite right. I have a few clues on how to remedy this so will give them a try and report back. Also I think it needs a closure as it swings open too far, so I plan to add some hook and eyes. So not quite finished but proven wearable - especially to a lovely ladies lunch day!

Tuesday, August 11, 2009

Shop, shop, shopping in Melbourne

Not much more has happened on the Chanel jacket front as last week was busy and this week I am in Melbourne for a short holiday.

Since I was in Melbourne, I decided to check out two city fabric stores -Tessuti's and Cleg's.

This is the fabric I bought at Tessuti's. Not real exciting I suppose in colour, etc but great basics in beautiful quality fabrics. The first is a silk (like a silk Georgette? - lightweight with a crinkle). It is a print and colour I just had to have to make a tunic-style top for this Spring. The next is a beautiful khaki-brown jersey from the remnant bin and then another jersey (a viscose jersey, I think) in a colour called 'aubergine' but like a really dark brown. Destined to be a frock. The last one in 'winter white' is a wool jersey which I haven't been able to obtain locally. I am interested to see how this one goes.

Next to Clegs - silk again! This time a lining and suit-weight silk to make my second Chanel jacket. I was lucky enough that the suiting was on sale (50% off).

Other than fabric shopping, we have been to see the Dali exhibition at the National Gallery of Victoria and A Day in Pompeii at the Melbourne Museum. Then apart from more shopping we have basically been eating and drinking our way through the restaurants in Lygon St and around town. Great food everywhere!
Tomorrow we pick up a hire car and are heading to have two days in the Dandenongs at a cute cottage b&b.

Other exciting news ... I have become involved in a new neighbourhood group in the Australian Sewing Guild. I attended an Industry Day on Saturday and we will have our first meeting next month. I am looking forward to meeting with a bunch of other sewing-obsessed ladies!

More sewing hopefully next week, when I will be raring to see my machine again!

Monday, August 3, 2009

Chanel Post #3

I had my third lesson last Saturday. We discussed a lot on the day but did not sew so!
One of the things discussed was an alternate way to sew the seams for the lining. In my previous post, you can see I butted the seams together and hand stitched them. This time I tried a flat felled version. One side of the lining is sewn (by machine) to the opposite seam allowance. Then the other side of the lining is folded over and hand stitched over the top of this. I hope that makes sense... this is a photo of the seam after one side has been stitched down and then the other side is pressed and pinned ready to hand stitch.
This is the result - a much tidier seam than I managed with the other method....

Pity these seams are inside the sleeves and will never be seen! My next job was to insert the sleeves - what with trying to keep linings out of the way, etc it wasn't great fun! One went in beautifully - the other hung strange. It was sort-of alright but you could see it wasn't sitting like the first one. So, after emailing Felicity, I checked all measurements to discover one sleeve wasn't matching the other (the seam was different by about 0.5 cm at the top of the sleeve) so removed it , basted it - still not right. Then I noticed (another pointer from Felicity) that the sleeve was a bit twisted compared to the other one. The ribbon stripes were not the same on both, so took it out again and straightened it. It still isn't as good as the first one but is much improved and I think I have passed my limit for patience so I a happy to declare it good enough!

This is the jacket now with shoulder pads pinned in place.

Next up is to work out exactly where the shoulder pads should sit, then attach them and finish the lining around the sleeves.

I have been enjoying this process so much that I have joined the sew-along Go Chanel or Go Home. I will be sewing a second jacket in September when the sew-along starts. This suits me well as I should have time to finish this jacket, have my planned week's holiday, draft the pattern I want to use and muslin it (hopefully) before September. This post outlines my plans. Should be fun!