Friday, May 27, 2016

Endless Combinations.. continues ..Vogue 1020 Pants

I didn't win the Endless Combinations Contest, but was really happy to get as many votes as I did (thank you guys) and am also loving every piece I made in it.  The other entries were awesome and some people managed to sew a pile.  I only got my 4 items sewn, but love this style of sewing so will continue the theme.

My next item is a pair of black ponte pants.  I have a pair I made a few years ago but they have got pilled and old looking.  I used a Vogue wardrobe pattern - Vogue 1020. I never did blog about them as I was not happy with them, but for a pair of pants I wasn't happy with, I sure wore them a lot!  I liked the cut of the leg but the fit was not so good with a big dip at the back waist being the most annoying feature.

I decided to make the same pants and found I had a size 12 traced off (as well as the 10, which I think the old pants were).  I needed the 12 now so that saved me some time.  I decided I needed to improve the fit though, so I referred to the book Knits for Real People and cut my pieces as per their recommendation of adding 1" seams to the outside leg seam and inseam.  Then I sewed the front and back crotch to within a few inches of the inside seam and pinned the rest of the seams, so that the seams are on the outside.  You prepare your elastic by sewing it in the round and after very carefully pulling on the pants, the elastic is worn over the pants at the waist. Then pin and adjust, carefully!.  I ended up making a pile of adjustments.  I also referred to the Palmer Pletsch pants fitting book for help.

I didn't note down all the changes, but from memory, it went something like this:
  • took a wedge out of the front crotch and sewed it deeper -short front crotch
  • sewed the back crotch deeper and added some fabric to the top of the back waistband (I had added that to the tissue already as I knew I would need it) - this stopped the back waist dipping down.
  • added width to the inseams at the top of the leg - front and back
  • added to the seams from the knee down in the back piece - it was catching on my calves.
I can see why I was not happy with the fit of the first pair, even though I did wear them!

I had so many changes that after transferring them to the tissue, I then re-cut my pieces to reflect the changes and then sewed the pants. Probably still not perfect but so much better than my previous pair.  In the photos I have paired them with my last piece from the endless combinations contest - the New Look top, as well as my merino Jalie cardigan, a favorite piece from the year before last.  If you interested the necklace is from a little indy jewellry maker in Brisbane called Strat Designs.

Luckily Lincraft had a 50% off sale and I picked up this robust looking ponte at that time.  It cost me $11 so these pants are quite the bargain.  Winning!

And all this sewing is just in time as the blustery cold winds have arrived and it won't be long before I am living in my new coat!

Ciao kittens,  more endless combinations and a bit of costume crafting coming up...

Friday, May 20, 2016

Endless Combinations Contest

You have seen all the pieces in the last few posts, but  I thought I should show you the composite photo.  

The contest is open for voting now and if you are a PR member you have access to 5 votes.  You can find all the entries here

My contest entry is here, if you want to read more about it.  If you able to vote and have the time to look at the entries it would be much appreciated by everyone who has taken the time to get their entries in. :)

Ciao for now kittens...

Tuesday, May 17, 2016

Endless combinations ... piece 2... New Look 6325 coat

Next up piece 2 - sorry about the lack of order in presenting the pieces... this however is my favorite piece of this 4 piece set.  New Look 6325 coat.

The pattern was purchased over a year ago and the fabric was bought over a year ago too, but I didn't get it made last winter.  I was determined to have it ready for this winter season, so this contest gave me the deadline I needed to get it done. 

I love the colour, love the collar, love the simplicity but stylishness.  Love that it is warm and squishy but not too heavy to wear... 

When I was buying the fabric in Tamworth at the PR week-end get-together, one of the girls (Hi Sandra!)  suggested I partially line it.  So I did line it.  I fully lined it as I decided it would make it so much nicer to wear.  I used the Connie Long guide to sewing linings, and it worked a treat.  

The jacket is made from boiled wool and the lining is a stretch satin (polyester).  I found a lovely big old leather button in my stash and love how it looks on this coat.  I did interface behind the button and snaps, but am wondering if I need to do more to support the button, but I shall see how it goes.

The review is here and next post I will present my 4 piece endless combinations collection... Ciao kittens!

Monday, May 16, 2016

Endless combinations contest... piece 3... Hot Patterns pants

Piece 3 in my chain for the Endless Combinations contest is pants. I chose the Hot Patterns Fast &  Fabulous tummy taming trousers.  I love the idea of these pants - smooth silhouette, comfy as pj's... these words drew me in.  I had a gorgeous bengaline in a rich dark brown that I thought would work well in my wardrobe.

Worn here with piece 4 shown in my last post.  I did a lot of work on the fit in the muslin stage.  The pattern suggests you make a muslin in non-stretch fabric and that seemed to work well.

 This composite is to try and show you the high waist detail.  It is high but it does give the promised smooth silhouette.   Still surprisingly comfortable because of the stretch in the fabric.

Do you like my fierce model pose?  I ended up using it in my review as I thought it showed the pieces quite well.

A link to my review if you are interested in the detail of this make. Ciao kittens, piece 2 tomorrow... 

Saturday, May 7, 2016

Endless Combinations Contest ... piece 4... New Look 6150 top

Yes it is piece 4, no you haven't missed 2 & 3... I am just sewing the pieces in an order that suits the current warm autumn weather we are having.  My second piece is a boiled wool coat and it is too warm to be handling wool.  In fact my top was intended to be a merino jersey top but I decided a 3/4 sleeve top in rayon would actually got worn more quickly. 

I used New Look 6150 again.  I previously made it here.  Sadly the last top is much loved but the fabric is pilling and deteriorating at a fast rate.  When I made the blue version, I did actually buy some rayon knit for a second version, so decided that now was the time to make it up.

This pattern fits me well with no alteration.  I chose my size based on my bust size +1" ease and chose the size that corresponded with that as marked on the front bodice pattern pieces.   The pleats and gathers are a bit fiddly but the rayon takes pressing well and the fiddle is well worth the effort of the finished top.

I really need to make more of this pattern and will try the boat neck (View D) next time.
I have written a review so all the details of the making of the top is in the review - here.

Ciao kittens ... pants next (piece 3)... holding my breath to see if I can make the deadline of all 4 pieces but still holding onto some hope...

Thursday, May 5, 2016

Endless combinations... piece one ... Burdastyle 06-2011-139 dress

I had hoped and am still hoping I might get an entry into the Endless Combinations Contest on Pattern Review.  However it has taken me 4 weeks to get the first piece made... so now I have 2 weeks to get 3 more done.  I am not giving up yet.

I had a pile of fabrics chosen for my pieces and you can see the black and cream jersey is dying to be a wrap dress.

Well I had actually chosen another pattern off burdastyle for it, but I don't have the issue it was in (not being a current subscriber) so I planned to download it.  Well the sewing gods had other ideas and the Burdastyle download was broken for a few days so it gave me time to think about it more.  I decided the pattern I had chosen needed a heavier knit and I should look for  a new pattern for my fabric.  BTW the Burdastyle download did get fixed and I was offered a coupon code to make up for the fact so I still got the other pattern... surprised? ... can't have too many frocks... or frock patterns!

So I had time to think and decided a wrap dress would be perfect and went looking for inspiration.  The ultimate wrap dress inspo is a DVF dress, oui?  How about this...

This would be perfect for my fabric, don't you think.    This is  the DVF Julian wrap dress and is divine with a capitol D.  However well out of my budget. This is why we sew. 

I have made DVF inspired wrap dresses before but the skirt in these patterns is fuller.  This more modern version has a narrower skirt, which I really like so I started looking for a pattern.  I am trying not to add to the stash so looked through the patterns I already owned and a pattern from Burdastyle caught my eye.  It is 06/2011 - 139 a designer pattern. Blumarine to be exact and this picture shows the blumarine dress compared to my inspo pic. 

The skirt is narrower but a few changes needed to be made.  This is what I ended up doing to make it more like my desired dress:

- I left off the collar. 
- I narrowed the (trumpet) sleeves and made them 3/4 length. 
- I raised the curve of the front neckline by 3". 
-I attached the ties higher and correspondingly raised the side seam gap which the tie passes through.

Not a style adjustment but a fit adjustment - I added more width to the bicep.  I am not sure this is an adjustment I normally make to a Burdastyle pattern, or whether it is because it is a "designer" pattern, but I am happy with my changes as my arms don't look like sausages in a too tight casing!

A few of these tips I got from reading the reviews which were pretty positive.  I ended up making a muslin to check my changes and was happy with the result so went ahead with my dress which really is a quick dress to make.  I am not so sure why it took me so long to make this dress, but I think I had a lot of self doubt about all the changes, but I am pretty happy with the result.  Not an exact replica but I hope you can see a touch of the inspiration dress...

I haven't got "proper" modeled photos yet but have a wild hope I can get the three other pieces made before the end of the contest and will get my photos better organised then.  Wish me luck!  Ciao kittens... piece 4 sewn out of order next...