Wednesday, April 25, 2012

Muslin.. Burda 12-2008-109

I am going to a ball!  Yay!  An excuse to frock up - always good!  I don't own a long gown, so this is my chance to make one.  The pattern I have chosen is Burda 12-2008-109.

Where can I find a cut-out Bambi to accessorise this dress, I wonder??

The line drawing ...

This is a 3 dot pattern, which Burda describes as Intermediate difficulty for advanced learners.

The hardest part has been interpreting the Burda-speak to work out how piece 8 (the shoulder band) went on.  I have sewn a muslin to check fit and to make sure I could work out how to make it.  I took some photos after I worked it out.  I had to put the facing together first then pin the front and back to my dummy and then from there work out from the facing piece where the shoulder band is sewn.  Once I worked it out, the instructions made sense!

I have included these photos in case anyone else chooses to make this dress.  Hope it helps! :)

I have completed the muslin and have the mugshots here, so that (I am hoping) you can provide a little feedback on how it is fitting.  (My shoulders aren't actually crooked, it is just the collar which is sitting crooked.) 

The alterations I think I need are:
  • Enlarge the armhole slightly.
  • the back is a little tight just above the band.  I think I may let the darts out on the bodice back a little.
  • maybe add a smidge more space to the side seams at hip level.
What do you think?


  1. Looking great Sue! Good fit out of the envelope which is always a relief, isn't it? :) I really like the style, especially the back which is why you chose this dress. :)

    I'd agree with the comment that you need more width in the hip, although I'd say more thigh/hip and in the back only. It's quite obvious in the back and side views that the back needs more room.

    I also totally agree with your other alterations. The only other thing I see is the pulling in the front across the bust. I'm wondering if you need more room just above the band in the front, as well as the back? You will have to be careful though. Wouldn't want the front to gape so it will be a balancing act.

    Overall though, wow, great fit!

  2. Wow! That is going to look fabulous! I see the little bit of pulling there at the hips, but that will be easily fixed. That is going to be so much fun to wear

  3. Not being a fitting expert, I am just going to nod sagely at the advice you've previously been given BUT I think that if the MUSLIN version of a pattern looks as stylish as this does, then you absolutely HAVE to make it. This ball gown is going to look fabulous on you, sue. It's absolutely perfect for you.

  4. Maybe a bit more room all the way down the side seams. That should (?) fix the bust tightness without gaping the front and the back as well. You could try to just take out the side seams and see how that works. Overall, great design on you.

  5. It's looking good Sue. You've chosen a lovely style.
    I agree with your suggested alterations.
    Would it be easier to add a smidge in the centre back seam at the hip level instead of the side seams? I think Vicki is onto something to give you a better bust fitting.
    I'm liking this dress more and more...

  6. What fun, sewing for a ball! I have nothing to add over the other commenters. Can'e wait to see what fabric you are using.

  7. Sue, I was going to say that it needed a tad more room in the back but only really low down at the lowest part of your hips almost in line with your wrists in the pic. Belinda beat me to it though and she's more experienced than me. I think the fit is pretty amazing though and it looks like you're going to be very glam. :) It's a good choice of dress.

  8. Sue this is going to be gorgeous on you. Agree on the need for a bit more fabric allowed for hip area, dont forget you will need enough ease for dancing/ sitting as well.
    Its going to be really, really lovely dress, I can't wait to see it in the green Genoa.

  9. I'd first shorten the back darts - they go up too far into your shoulder blades, into the only part of your back that's wide.
    And definitely let out the hips a tad, then it'll be perfect :-)!
    Do beware of lowering the armholes - it's easy to stray into bra-baring territory, are you trying this on with the exact bra you'll be wearing?

  10. This is looking pretty fantastic Sue. The only changes I would suggest are to maybe reduce the length over the bust a bit - there seems to be a couple of wrinkles there and I agree with you to widen the hips a tad, maybe only at the front to stop the pleats opening up. It's always fun seeing a formal dress come together,

  11. The fit is looking great! I'm no expert on fit so I'll leave that to others. It's going to be a beautiful dress.

  12. Great work so far,Sue! I looked first at the 'collar'-does it just need to be positioned better for the photograph? From the back you seems to have one shoulder very slightly lower/one slightly higher? than the other(my own problem so I tend to look there first).There could be several reasons for it looking like this, so this is just an observation from a wonky shouldered observer....Very impressive so far!

  13. No fit help here, sorry Sue but the dress style looks fantastic. Can't wait to see the fabric and the finished dress - lucky you to get to go to a ball!

  14. What a great 'gown'...I really like the back and collar lines on you (and I think I'd like them on on me too!) I am very 'new' to fitting - so nothing to add but I appreciate reading more experienced comments! A great 'learning' blog post! Thanks!

  15. Sue! This looks amazing, you'll be Belle of the Ball. ;) Looking forward to seeing how it comes out in the satin.

  16. This is looking great! I can't wait to see the final dress.

  17. What a stunning pattern! I'm looking forward to seeing what fabric you have chosen for the final version :)
    And I would be flattered if my ombre dyed skirt has inspired you to try it out for yourself. Thank you!

  18. What a lovely gown and the muslin looks good so far.

  19. great muslin!! haha cut out bambi, what the. patter company photos r strange...


Love to hear what you think...