Saturday, January 14, 2012

Another shirtdress... Burdastyle 05-2011-117

Another shirtdress (and my last sewing for 2011).  This is a very different dress to the last one. Burdastyle 05-2011-117.  This time in a rayon shirting from  Hopefully this will be a nice cool summer dress.  The fabric was quite bright and I was wondering what I would make from it when it arrived, but I think this dress suits it well.  It may be a little brighter in real life to these photos but they are not too far off.  I think the dress has a real 1940's vibe.

 The description states A classic shirtwaist dress with romantic styling.  Front darts fit it to the figure, while the small notched collar and sophisticated back add a touch of class.  

Now I love the collar and the blouson back, but it doesn't look like Burda's photos where there is no hint of how blousy the back really is.

The pockets are a nice feature and are top-stitched (not noticeable on this busy fabric) and I like how they suggest doing it by using the pocket pattern to give you a guide to the stitching line.

The blousy back - I like it and I think it does add a quirky design feature as well as making the hips look slim, but it does show from the front (unlike Burdastyle's photos in the magazine).

I used a seam allowance guide to cut the SA of this pattern - quite like it.  It is perhaps not as accurate as drawing your own SA but so much quicker and perfectly satisfactory result for this sewist :)

I was very lucky to receive this as a blog give away from Jorth, and will be using it a lot as I hope to sew a lot more from my Burda and Ottobre magazines this year.

My only negative comment about this pattern is that when I raise my arms the whole dress comes with it.  Any clues as to what I need to do, to alleviate this??  Is it to do with sleeve width or armhole size??

Anyway it is too late for this dress, I like it and will still wear it.  It will just be a lady's lunching dress not a putting things away on high shelves dress.

Nearly caught up with my blogging.  I have joined the pattern review fabric stash contest so have made two small items for that before getting totally distracted by finishing a quilt started years ago... Ciao for now kittens!


  1. What a great summer dress for our hot climate. I think this looks very wearable, even if you can't flap your arms up high...

  2. How pretty. This a lovely and flattering style on you Sue. Not sure what you can do about the waistband issue

  3. That is a perfect hot day dress! I like the interesting back detail, plus it must feel cool.

  4. Love your shirtdress Sue, especially the back detail and the summery fabric..

  5. ooh I love it on you - I have plans for that dress myself..eventually, a few other "must sews" before then.

    good choice of fabric, both in colour (perfect for you) and drape - the flow factor really helps to show that blouson effect really nicely.

    re arm hole - my guess is that it is something to do with the armscythe. You arm should be able to pivot within the socket space - if its too low, then you arm will drag the dress with it. Perhaps check it against a pattern that fits you well and if it is lower, raise it and see what happens - you can always lower it again if that is not the problem.

    Of course, you could post on PR board. There will be someone who really KNOWS there!

  6. Love your dress.

    In the class I'm doing on PR for the Classic French Jacket, Angela says to raise the armhole to stop the jacket from moving when you raise your arm so maybe it is the same for a dress.

  7. Pretty dress Sue. I like the fabric!

    About the dress riding up, I went back and looked at your photos. In the photo with your hands in your pocket I can see what you mean. I've had this issue with Burda before.

    It appears to be the sleeve. Burda draft tall, narrow sleeves that I find don't work when cut short. The bicep sleeve width is too narrow and restricting making the sleeve bind. I change their short sleeve, reducing the height of the sleeve cap and making the sleeve wider. You could also substitute another sleeve.

    Short sleeves are hard to get right.

  8. I love this pattern. I find the blouson back to be very comfortable on warm days. I love the fabric you've chosen and I think it suits this pattern perfectly for a lovely retro feel. I agree with the last comment - Burda sleeves are always too tall in the cap for me.

  9. Lovely dress . The blouson back is beautiful and you have matched the drapiness of your fabric to this pattern really well. I have had the same problem with a BWOF dress - it was so comfy until I raised my arms. I ended up turning the dress into a skirt it was so annoying.


Love to hear what you think...