Sunday, July 25, 2010

Pants and jackets

I have been working on making some simple double knit elastic waist pants. I want these pants mainly to wear under long slim-line tops. Well so far I have made 4 (one muslin - now PJ pants, one already packed off to Vinnies and two 'not so great' but 'will do' versions) and have now thrown my hands up in horror! This should be simple but obviously not!

Here is #3 version in black DK.

They are made from Vogue 1020. I bought this pattern mainly for the top, dress & skirt but decided to use it when I decided I needed DK knit pants in my wardrobe.

Well I think the front looks fine but I have all sort of issues at the back and I am so over it I won't go into it here. I have learnt:
  • all knit fabrics behave totally differently so give up on muslin-ing a knit pattern!
  • the Vogue crotch line does not work for me
  • Pattern Reviewer's can give great advice on fit issues but go in with a thick skin...ouch!
Anyway I have a black and a dark brown pair in the wardrobe that are not a brilliant fit but no worse than a lot of RTW, so I will wear them for the moment until I feel brave enough to go down the pants-fit road again.

My next major project is a black jacket which I need for work. I have bought a bargain priced piece of 100% black wool from Bargain Box in Ipswich and this pattern with Alison's help.

I think this pattern fits the bill - for a work jacket - long enough to fit over the new uniform shirt top. Casual but still dressy enough with enough cute features to keep me happy.

I have the muslin cut, the silk lining prepared and the the wool is fused to a lightweight quality interfacing. This pattern has 20 pieces (more when you realise that some are cut from the main fabric as well as the lining) so is going to be quite a challenge, but I am looking forward to it.

Here is the silk charmeuse from Gorgeous fabrics that I plan to use as the lining.

It feels beautiful, has no black in it and probably cost more than the outer fabric but I love it and am looking forward to using it for this jacket. Keep your fingers crossed that the muslin fits without too much heart-ache!


  1. Ohhh, I feel for you on the pants fitting issues. It's not easy.
    BTW, I love the skirt in the Vogue pattern. Are you going to make that?

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  3. (Sorry to delete the previous comment, but I noticed a particularly embarrassing spelling error and couldn't work out how to edit my comment.)

    I think your outfit looks lovely, but I'm hearing you on both the pants fitting and the thick skin.

    I'm still absolutely no help with the fitting advice and am most dismayed to hear your discouraged tone. You're such a fabulous seamstress and your knit garments, especially, look so nice.

    I am keeping an eye out for a knit pants pattern for you in Burda. I'm sure there'll be some in my Burda Plus mags but that's no help to trim, fit you! Besides, after what Belinda said about knit pants patterns being really rare, I'm now second-guessing myself all over the place. It's amazing the things you can learn...

    Anyway, I just wanted to chime in to let you know I'm reading and cheering you on from the sidelines :-)

  4. Do you have the Palmer/Pletsch Pant Fitting book? Honestly, by following their method of pant fitting, you can fit any pant pattern in any fabric.

  5. I agree about the crotch curve of Vogue pants. I have not had the greatest luck with them, and when they do work, it requires muslin, after muslin, after muslin. I do like the way Burda drafts their pants...I was reluctant to try a new pattern after what seemed like 400 muslins to get the vogue pattern to work for me, but 2 muslins and the Burda pattern works great. Not only that, they are so consistent with their drafts, I can apply those changes to any other Burda pant.

  6. It always surprises me when the ladies on pattern review cut up mean, you wouldn't think people with a love of sewing would have it in them to be less than encouraging! I've seen it 3 times now, so I'm not surprised one or two were less than tactful. Now, if you want to read knitters who cut up mean, read the comments on this post - the famous "looks like clown vomit" post.

    wow! People calm down, it's a free pattern!

    But I digress. I do want to encourage you on the pursuit of a gorgeous Burda suit jacket with sumptuous lining. I approve! Even a little jealous.

  7. I really want to make pants and have had the hardest time getting the crotch right... so I totally feel you in that issue. This past weekend I took apart a rtw pants and crossing eyes & toes that it works up to a good fit.

  8. Ugh. I know the pain of fitting pants. That super lining should take a little sting out of the pants, though - it is wonderful and will an unexpected twist to the jacket.

  9. Your pants look great. Fitting is a pain but so is wearing pants that don't fit well. I'm looking forward to you jacket to be :)

  10. I bought this same fabric to line a jacket (lining cost more than the outer fabric) but so far I've been unable to use it. I love it so much that I think I need to turn it into a blouse. I'm keen to see how your double knit pants wear. I've made two double knit skirts recently and I'm not in love with how they look after a days wear. Good luck with the jacket. Looking forward to seeing that lining!

  11. Sorry about the issues with the knit fabrics. Being a knitter and a machine knitter I can only say, your only option is to use a knit fabric for your muslin, but as you say, they all behave differently. I ask the sewing gods to help and keep notes on how the fabric behaved. Vogue crotches don't work for anyone. The Today's Fit are better but burda are better still.

    I love the patterns and the fabrics, good luck with it all.


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