Burda wof 12-2009-112 Skirt

I have just finished two of this skirt - Burda 12-2009-112. I am not even going to try and find a link for this pattern.

The first one is a poly/viscose/spandex blend in a plaid which has a crimply texture.

I decided to line this version as I thought the fabric needed it, however from reading up on this skirt I realised I would have to underline it because of the way it is constructed.

I had read this tip earlier, but of course couldn't find it again when I wanted to read it again, so made up my own version. I would recommend following the tip as it looks better than how I have finished this skirt, but I am still happy with what I did.

To underline and seam finish in one, for the front and the back:

• I cut the hem allowance off the underlining piece.
• I sewed the darts in the fabric and the underlining (in the back)
• I then put the fabric and the underlining RS together and sewed together on the sides with a narrow seam (I used the overlocker)
• turned RS out, pressed and then basted the top edges together.

this is the back piece after this process...

The pieces are then treated like normal and when the side seams are sewn, you need to take into account the little bit of seam allowance lost to sewing it to the underlining. The other advantage is that the hem is stitched to the underlining fabric so you cannot see your stitches from the outside.

Finished skirt - I had to press the pleat a bit on this fabric as it was too pouffy. I am not sure if that is the result of this fabric (my suspicion) or the fact it is underlined. In this photo the hem still needs a better press.

The button close up... this is a good pattern to use those one-off buttons from the button box.

A fuzzy pic of the back... (the horizontal part of the plaid shows up more strongly than I expected it would!)

The side with matched plaid. Please note if you make this in a stripe or plaid, you can only match one side not both! So if that bothers you, don't choose a plaid.

The inside of the finished skirt (back) where you can see that I used rayon seam binding on the edge of the inside waistband facing. The waistband is stitched in the ditch from the front to hold the waistband facing.

And the buttoning process. There are two buttons (one on the inside waistband) and three buttonholes. The inside button is buttoned through one buttonhole...

Then the waistband is folded and the second button is slid through two buttonholes which are folded against each other (hope that makes sense). Where my fingers are is where the inside button is...

See the inside button here and the folds of the waistband...

I loved it so much I went shopping the stash and found this black RPL and made a second skirt. I did not underline this one and the pleat falls naturally in a much better fold that does not require pressing...

Fuzzy picture of the button. I found this covered button in my button box (which has buttons handed down from my Grandmother and mother). It looks like a crepe fabric but matched so well and gave the skirt a lovely 'office-wear' finish that I had to use it. My only concern is that it is so old it might deteriorate before the skirt does, but I checked that I have other suitable buttons in the same size if I need to replace it.

The inside waistband again finished with rayon seam binding and stitched in the ditch from the front. This is an identical finish to RTW pants I have.

And my tip to finish the hem. Before hand sewing the hem, I cut a strip of iron-on interfacing and pressed it at the height of the hem. then when you sew the hem the stitches are caught only on the interfacing and the stitches do not go all the way through to the front of the fabric. Gives a lovely finish on the outside.

I am going to do a 'fashion shoot' through the week as I wear these new skirts and show the photos later.

Now I need to go and sew buttons on the McCalls top - still!