Sunday, June 14, 2009

Hot Patterns Fit to be Tied Shirt - making a muslin

This is my current project. (I know, I know I haven't done the photos of the skirt yet but I will get around to it soon).

I have bought a beautiful quilting cotton by Kaffe Fasset. I think it was called a shot cotton. Woven one way in one colour and a different colour thread the other way. I would describe the colour as a deep copper.
As the fabric was very expensive I decided I needed to make a muslin first. I usually prefer to tissue fit but in this case it wasn't going to work.
  1. I was too lazy to trace the pieces off the pattern, so copied them instead on the big plan printer at work and cut out my size from the plan paper (recycled - it does actually have plans of buildings on the other side). This paper is too stiff to tissue fit.
  2. The pattern is fairly involved with gathered bits, pleats and four pieces in the back. Too complicated to pin together in tissue.

So muslin it was. I had a piece of poly-cotton in the stash bought for this purpose. I did make up the collar and cuff even though I know it is not necessary for the muslin, but I wanted to practice them - another good reason to do a muslin. This is the front and back of the muslin made to the pattern. The only alteration I did prior to this was shorten the sleeve length by 1".

The sleeves are interesting as the shoulders are cut in and there is a pleat at the top of the sleeve on the shoulder. Very nice!
However there is too much fabric around the bust and the back is showing signs of sway back by pooling in the middle of my back. I pinned in the side seams from about waist height up to the bottom of the sleeve and then pinned the sleeve seam in a bit also for about 6 or 7 inches (the sleeves are set in flat - another interesting thing!) This was the result for the front, which I think is much improved.

I pinned in the seam lines in the back and I think that has helped the sway back.

I have marked these changes on my plan paper pattern and have cut it out of my fabric. Today I had planned to start sewing, but ended up doing a walk (climb?).

With some girls from the gym we walked from Picnic Point up to a place called Tabletop Mountain. The day was beautiful. I would put a photo up of the great view from the top, but the photos include the faces of my friends, so don't want to use them without their permission. The walk up and down was about 3 hours. On top of this I did 3 x 45 minute classes at the gym yesterday as they were doing a special release of new Les Mills programs.

I was a wee bit tired this afternoon so had a nap, instead of the intended sewing. Had enough time after my nap to interface the pieces needing it. I may have to try the 30 minute per day sewing so I can get started on this shirt. I am really looking forward to making it.


  1. Your muslin is looking great, I'm excited to see the final product!

  2. That is going to look great! Lucky you, can fix your swayback without having to add a CB seam.

  3. I have done muslins for my past couple garments and I've been so happy I did. Your shirt's fit is greatly improved with just a little pinning!

  4. This is going to be a great looking shirt. I have a few HP shirts I would like to make, but haven't done it yet. I have the princess seam shirt on my "short list."

  5. Since I found our blog through your review on PR, I know that the shirt came out great.


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